History & Heritage Walks in Parnell, Auckland

 

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Discover Parnell!

A brief history of Parnell
Les Harvey - interviews with the creator of Parnell Village
HeritageWalks: Parnell Trust's guided walks through historic Parnell
Heritage Walks: Self-guided walks through Parnell

Read travel guide comments on Parnell here!



A Brief History of Parnell

Parnell, contained between the harbour and the Domain, is Auckland's oldest suburb. It is vibrant with history. Pukekawa is the Maori name for the Domain, in memory of the dead in ancient wars. There was a Maori Pa at Point Resolution, above the Parnell Baths. At the foot of Stanley Street, then waterfront at Mechanics Bay, was a Maori hostelry, canoe reserve and market, not demolished till the 1960s.

The purchase of land for Auckland was confirmed in 1841, and blocks of 3-5 acres were sold, quickly subdivided into 36 allotments.. metamorphosised into the village of Parnell. But there were stately developments too: Judges Bay was named for Sir William Martin (our first chief justice) and Attorney General Swainson, and John Blackett's house and grounds in St Georges Bay were "the finest in the province".

Bishop Selwyn decided early that Parnell was to be the focus of the Church of England in Auckland, and in 1842 he had chosen the site for its future cathedral. He established a deanery, St Barnabas Church (formerly above Mechanics Bay), St Stephen's School (initially for Maori girls), the Church Grammar School in Ayr Steet, St Stephen's Chapel in Judges Bay, the first St Mary's church, and the Cathedral library and bell tower and Bishopscourt in St Stephens Avenue.

Most early settlers were mechanics and tradesmen. They congregated in Mechanics Bay, where the first European suburban and industrial development took place. Early industry included a sawmill, a brickworks, Robertson's Rope Walk, a flour mill and boat building. From the 1870s, first Mechanics Bay and then St Georges Bay disappeared as they were reclaimed for industry, railway and port development.

In the early 1850s a bridge crossed the inlet to Mechanics Bay - right where Parnell Rise begins now - and this opened a main highway through Parnell and Newmarket to the farming settlements of Epsom, Onehunga and the south. In the 1870s a railway system saw a bridge over Parnell Road and a tunnel through Parnell Hill. Tramcars ran up Parnell Road in the early 1900s. In 1919 some of the finest foreshore houses were demolished and their land cut away to form Tamaki Drive, finally severing Parnell from contact with the open harbour.

For a time Parnell languished. Industry, office, transient accommodation encroached. But Les Harvey, a local property developer, created 'Parnell Village', catalyst for regeneration both as a tourist centre and a prime residential area. (Read a series of stories on Les Harvey here.)

Learn more on Parnell's history on Wikipedia


Parnell Trust Guided Walks through Historic Parnell







Parnell Trust offers six walks through Parnell and its neighbouring suburbs of Grafton and Newmarket. These are guided walks lead by experienced and knowledgeable guides. The walks are seasonal, with only occasional walks organised in winter months.

All walks are $5 per person. Bookings are essential. Phone (09) 379 2095 x 9704 or email community@parnell.org.nz. (Parnell Trust reserves the right to change or cancel any walk, date or time. All persons booked will be notified.)

See
Parnell Trust website for further details

 

Summer Walks: check here for dates


 

Parnell's Hidden Treasures
Departs from the Jubilee Building, 545 Parnell Road, Parnell. Limited to 15 people.

An introduction to life as it was in the busy suburb of the 19th Century. Stroll down streets steeped in the history of Auckland, feel the ambience and excitement that must have been experienced by those brave immigrants who came to the shores and embraced life in a new country.


Streams & Gullies
Guided by Tom Bowden. Departs from the main entrance of the Jubilee Building, 545 Parnell Road, Parnell. Limited to 30 people.

A brisk walk requiring an above average level of fitness - not suitable for prams and buggies. Bush reserves down to Hobson Bay linking to Gladstone Road, St Georges Bay Road and Parnell Road. Walk ends at Dunk Cafe.

Approximately 70% of the walk is in bush-clad reserves with gravel paths and wooden steps, necessitating sturdy footwear, and a jacket if wet.


Grafton
Guided by Christiane Pracht and Elizabeth Priest. Departs from the footpath outside the Langham Hotel (formerly the Sheraton), 83 Symonds Street, Auckland.

Tour around the streets of Grafton and identify some of Auckland's early houses of the area as well as significant architectural buildings and structures such as the Grafton Bridge, cemetery etc. Walk will finish on the corner of Park and Grafton Roads.


Judges Bay
Guided by Rendell McIntosh. Assemble in the car park area in Judges Bay Road, Parnell - near the beachfront. Please meet 15 minutes prior. Limited to 50 - 60 people. $2 per person.

Rendell has been researching the history of the Judges Bay/Parnell area since 2001 for a planned book on the area. Rendell will cover historic aspects of the area including the geology, Maori and European history. Learn about the early Maori settlement and Maori hospital and where Bishop Selwyn landed in New Zealand.

 


Auckland Domain
Guided by Gianluca Watson. Departs from large steel "Guardian" bird scuplture located on the grassy slope behind the Museum. Limited to 30 people

Come and explore the geological, Maori and Euripean histories of New Zealand's oldest park. The walk will finish at the front of the Museum.


Newmarket
Guided by Roger Cole-Baker. Departs outside 6 Seccombes Road, Newmarket and ends at Highwic, 40 Gillies Avenue. Please meet 15 minutes prior. Limited to 30 people

An early gateway to the city; explore examples of heritage buildings every decade between 1850 and 1960.


St Stephens Chapel
Guided by Revd. Dr. Warren Limbrick. Meet at St Stephen's Chapel, Judge Street, Parnell.

St. Stephen's Chapel, Judges' Bay - and its silent churchyard congregation. A visit to the historic chapel of St. Stephen built in 1856.

(Visiting by yourself? This church is open for worship at 9am most Sundays, and all are welcome, but is not open for public viewing at other times, except by special arrangement through the Cathedral office. For more info see here.)

A listing of headstone engravings for St Stephens Cemetery can be found at the Auckland City Libraries website here

Self-Guided Walks through Historic Parnell

Walk No 1: Metro Magazine's Parnell walk click here (PDF Print version here )

Walk No 2: Parnell's Heritage ... a dozen delights (as below. PDF Print version here )

1. WHITBY LODGE
330 Parnell Road
Map
Many claims have been made for the early origin of this house, but Stacpoole reports that the recorded evidence points to its having been build around 1874 for Fraser of Fraser & Tinne, engineers, on land acquired from Hulme Court. Its stone construction is of special interest.

2. HULME COURT
350 Parnell Road
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Believed to be the oldest Auckland building on its original site. This elegant house in the Regency manner was build in 1843 for Sir Frederick Whitaker, later Attorney General and Premier. Constructed of bluestone (which has since been plastered) it has a hipped slate roof, and was one surrounded by a finely detailed trellis work veranda, now partly obscured by additions. It was purchased by Lieutenant Colonel Hulme, commander of the local British forces. In the 1850s it served temporarily as Government House, and later Bishop Selwyn lived here.

3. PARNELL LIBRARY BUILDING
390 Parnell Road
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Designed by architect M K Draffin, in the classical manner, and built in 1924. Attached was a community hall, which contains a highly attractive and colourful plaster ceiling. Prior to the construction of the library, a fire tower stood on the site, and the local library was housed in the Parnell Council buildings across the road.


4. KEMPS DEPARTMENT STORE
413-427 Parnell Road
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Commanding the junction of St Stephens Avenue with Parnell Road is the handsome wooden building that was Kemps Department Store. Now with five ground floor shops below the veranda, its facade above shows a strong pattern of arched windows in pairs under pediments. Kemps Store operated as merchants, tailors, drapers, milliners and mercers, with workrooms upstairs. It was destablished in 1885 and was considered the best all round store in Auckland. It was said to have "wakened up sleepy Parnell to a sense of what up to date business premises should be like".


5. SELWYN LIBRARY, BISHOPS COURT, 8 St Stephens Avenue
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A group of beautiful wooden buildings built 1861-63 to the design of Frederick Thatcher in his characteristic timber Gothic style. First came the library, then the adjoining baptistry and bell tower, then the Bishop's house and chapel, all grouped round an entrance court open on one side. John Stacpoole calls it "a most remarkable piece of planning" and refers to "Thatcher's felicities of ingeniously controlled roofs, introduced gables, and windows... he made full use of roofs of broken pitch - roofs which flatten out toward the eaves."

6. NELIGAN HOUSE, 12 St Stephens Avenue
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Designed as a new Bishopscourt in the Arts and Crafts style by architects Bamford & Pierce, it was built 1908-10 on part of the site purchased in 1843 by Bishop Selwyn. The front of the house contains a private chapel. In 1940 it was converted to a boarding house called Strathmore Lodge. Restored in 1990, it is now the Anglican Trust Board's offices.

7. THE DEANERY, 17 St Stephens Avenue
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Completed in 1857, it is one of Frederick Thatcher's earliest buildings, a small house but quite a complex one. The stonework (from Rangitoto) stops at first floor level. The building has been little altered, though the roof was originally shingles. Selwyn lived there before he moved to Bishops Court. It was never used as a Deanery.


8. ST MARY'S IN HOLY TRINITY CATHEDRAL, 420-432 Parnell Road | Web
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"One of the finest of all wooden churches in New Zealand", says Stacpoole, "and regarded by some as Mountfort's ecclesiastical masterpiece. It shows his mastery of the Gothic style and his ability to create magical spaces using the simplest means". The lofty interior is an extremely fine example of timber construction. It was built between 1886 and 1897, on the other side of Parnell Road. In 1982 it was moved across the road to its present site next to the cathedral.

Opening Hours: Holy Trinity Cathedral and St Mary's Church are open to visitors every day unless a special service or event is taking place. Summer (October - March): Monday - Saturday: 10am - 3pm; Sundays 11.30am - 3pm. Winter hours (April - September): close 3.30 pm.


9. TERRACE HOUSES, 469-473 Parnell Road
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A really handsome set of three terrace houses, distinguished by a black painted facade and brickwork sides festooned with Virginia creeper.


10. CLAYBROOK, 6 Claybrook Road
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Designed in 1843 and owned by architect Sampson Kempthorne, it is one of the oldest houses on its original site in Auckland. The house had an original core which may have been a prefabricated house Kempthorne had brought with him. Kempthorne arrived in Auckland in 1842 and purchased the land close to the Domain, in Auckland's second land purchase.


11. KINDER HOUSE, 2 Ayr Street
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This was the first and largest of three stone houses in Parnell designed by Frederick Thatcher in the late 18502, and the only truly two-storeyed one. It was built by the stonemason, Benjamin Strange, as the headmaster's house for the Church of England Grammar School, and named for its first and most distinguished occupant, Dr Kinder, well known as a water colourist and pioneer photographer. The house, now owned by Auckland City, is administered as a gallery/museum by the Kinder House Society Inc.
Open Tue-Sat 11.00am-3.00pm.


12. EWELME COTTAGE, 14 Ayr Street | Web
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A house museum, owned jointly by Auckland City and the Historic Places Trust. Ewelme Cottage was built in 1863 for Vicesimus Lush, who brought plans for a wooden house from England in 1850. "The cottage was much added to and altered, but these alterations are themselves typical of the better kind of unpretentious colonial house which grew with the needs of the family. Its north facing veranda and french windows are typical of the simple grace so often found at that time" (Stacpoole). Though Vicar of Howick, Lush chose to build in Parnell so that his sons could attend the Church of England Grammar School. His family lived there until 1968.
Open Fri-Sun 10.30am-12 noon & 1.00pm-4.30pm.